Our early morning stop for coffee was at a roadside saloon bar. Some of the locals were drinking down hard liquor at around 7 am. We started on flat roads then switched to a scenic cycle track recently built with E.U funding. Trouble was that the track zig-zagged around and added on lots of distance and time so we switched back to less scenic faster roads. The roads vary a lot here from smooth surfaces to real boneshakers. On the scenic routes we passed under a familly of 3 storks nesting in their wicker basket on top of a telegraph pole. We also see lots of swallows darting to and fro catching insects on the wing. Each one they eat is one less ot bite us and give us lumps all over. We have stopped in a lovely pension in a town called Mako just short of the Romanian border. Thanks for all the comments everyone has been leaving recently, it's really encouraging.
Barry
Saturday, 8 August 2009
Day 20 Thursday Budapest to Tiszakecske 104 miles
Had a very productive rest day - spent most of it at the thermal baths. The setting was very Alma-Tademaesque and we were spoilt for choice with hot, cold + whirl pools indoors and outdoors and saunas galore. Came away feeling totally relaxed and squeaky clean.
Felt a bit flat leaving Budapest this am and the countryside matched my mood. I do feel a little anxious about the next stage of our tour, we haven't booked any accommodation! Made good progress through the Hunagarian Plains with the big, big sky above us. Saw our first horse and cart; we were as much a couriousity to them as them to us. We are finding that the tandem creates a reaction wherever we go - sometimes admiration but mostly they think it's comical. Kirsty's bike, however, creates alot of admiring looks and people study it stroking their chin and even take photos of it.
We arrived in Tiszakecske in good time and in confident mood; 1.5 hours and 20 miles later we still hadn't managed to leave the place! We were starting to feel a little desperate when the road we were on ended at the Tisza with no bridge in sight - a 20 mile detour to the next town now looked like our only option. Whilst standing there scratching our heads the greatest couple on earth happened to be cycling by, a few phone calls later they had sorted out our accommodation and 15 min later we were all sat having beers feeling very lucky not to be sleeping in a barn!
Nancy is back home from Tanzania safe and sound.
Gill
Felt a bit flat leaving Budapest this am and the countryside matched my mood. I do feel a little anxious about the next stage of our tour, we haven't booked any accommodation! Made good progress through the Hunagarian Plains with the big, big sky above us. Saw our first horse and cart; we were as much a couriousity to them as them to us. We are finding that the tandem creates a reaction wherever we go - sometimes admiration but mostly they think it's comical. Kirsty's bike, however, creates alot of admiring looks and people study it stroking their chin and even take photos of it.
We arrived in Tiszakecske in good time and in confident mood; 1.5 hours and 20 miles later we still hadn't managed to leave the place! We were starting to feel a little desperate when the road we were on ended at the Tisza with no bridge in sight - a 20 mile detour to the next town now looked like our only option. Whilst standing there scratching our heads the greatest couple on earth happened to be cycling by, a few phone calls later they had sorted out our accommodation and 15 min later we were all sat having beers feeling very lucky not to be sleeping in a barn!
Nancy is back home from Tanzania safe and sound.
Gill
Wednesday, 5 August 2009
Day 19 Wednesday 0 miles!
We are on a rest day in Budapest and will be spending the day at the thermal baths. The adventure starts again manana.
Tuesday, 4 August 2009
Day 18 Tuesday Gyor to Budapest 90 miles
I was so pleased to be back in the saddle this morning that grinding down a murderous A road in a thunder storm at a filthy hour of the day seemed like fun. After a turnoff for the Budapest motorway the road became a bit more pleasant though the thunder storms continued. At times visibility was so bad we had to stand in a lay-by just getting soaked rather than risk a road where the cars couldn't see us or standing under a tree. We had a 9 o'clock coffee so sweet the spoon stood on it's end in a bar where the hard drinking had already begun. The cycling was fast and good along industrial stretches of the not so blue Danube. We passed gigantic cement factories, Soviet era towns and some very bad public sculpture. Had lunch on a shop doorstep as it was the only place we could find shade, by then the storms had gone and the sunshine was bright.
The last 25 miles into Budapest were hellish, ground down and pushed off the road by trucks, can still feel the tension in my shoulders from gripping the handlebars tight with fear.
Budapest is fabulous, all the Hapsburg razzmatazz and everyone is blinged up to the nines. We let the side down badly. We rolled into town smelling worse than ever and looking just as rough. Our laundry routine usually involves smearing cheap, animal fat based soap over our clothes then dancing on them in the shower, the residue looks like tar. Looking for the hostel we were mingling with the fashionistas smelling like we had just escaped an institution. We've found a washing machine and are going to spend the day at the baths tomorrow to compensate. I'm so glad I packed my pearls. Dad carries on wearing tracksuit bottoms and a Villa training top, am impressed by his lack of concern about peer/mum pressure.
kirsty
The last 25 miles into Budapest were hellish, ground down and pushed off the road by trucks, can still feel the tension in my shoulders from gripping the handlebars tight with fear.
Budapest is fabulous, all the Hapsburg razzmatazz and everyone is blinged up to the nines. We let the side down badly. We rolled into town smelling worse than ever and looking just as rough. Our laundry routine usually involves smearing cheap, animal fat based soap over our clothes then dancing on them in the shower, the residue looks like tar. Looking for the hostel we were mingling with the fashionistas smelling like we had just escaped an institution. We've found a washing machine and are going to spend the day at the baths tomorrow to compensate. I'm so glad I packed my pearls. Dad carries on wearing tracksuit bottoms and a Villa training top, am impressed by his lack of concern about peer/mum pressure.
kirsty
Day 17 Monday Vienna to Gyor 104 miles
Gill and I did this stage by ourselves. As Kirsy was still unwell, she planned to take a train to Gyor and meet us in the evening.
After eventually finding the cycle way out of Vienna, we cracked on at a good pace for about 6 hours with only 30 minutes rest. We entered Bratislavia and then Hungary. The disused delapidated border checkpoint into Hungary looked like a throwback from the cold war. A few miles further on we stopped at a busy roadside restaurant. The folk around us were eating lovely food but, although the menu was in 3 languages, we couldnt understand any of them. The name of every dish appeared to have every letter of the alphabet in it. We ended up with chips, a type of gherkin and cabbage salad and coke light which went down surprisingly well.
In the evening we arraived in Gyor and were taken to our apartment for the night by our host. The apartment was a kind of 60s block with matching furniture. After a couple of hours when Kirsty eventually found us we started to enjoy Gyor. I think this is my favourite place on the tour so far. It has a mix of grandiose and ramshakle buildings and a fantastic town centre square with children running in and out of dancing fountains. On the river we saw boat club members rowing round what appeared to be ancient castle walls.
Our problem with Gyor was finding the apartment as we set off for it around 11pm. We walked about in the rain for about an hour trying unsuccessfully to retrace our steps.
Barry
After eventually finding the cycle way out of Vienna, we cracked on at a good pace for about 6 hours with only 30 minutes rest. We entered Bratislavia and then Hungary. The disused delapidated border checkpoint into Hungary looked like a throwback from the cold war. A few miles further on we stopped at a busy roadside restaurant. The folk around us were eating lovely food but, although the menu was in 3 languages, we couldnt understand any of them. The name of every dish appeared to have every letter of the alphabet in it. We ended up with chips, a type of gherkin and cabbage salad and coke light which went down surprisingly well.
In the evening we arraived in Gyor and were taken to our apartment for the night by our host. The apartment was a kind of 60s block with matching furniture. After a couple of hours when Kirsty eventually found us we started to enjoy Gyor. I think this is my favourite place on the tour so far. It has a mix of grandiose and ramshakle buildings and a fantastic town centre square with children running in and out of dancing fountains. On the river we saw boat club members rowing round what appeared to be ancient castle walls.
Our problem with Gyor was finding the apartment as we set off for it around 11pm. We walked about in the rain for about an hour trying unsuccessfully to retrace our steps.
Barry
Day 16 Sunday Krems to Vienna
After arriving at Krems, Kirsty started to feel illfrom too much sun. She fainted in a restaurant and had to be taken back to the hostel in a taxi. The restauranteur was very kind providing ice and wet towelsto help revive her. He also waived our drinks and cancelled the meal we had ordered.
This morning we set off with Kirsty on the back of the tandem and Gill on Kirstys Moulton . However, after 7 miles, Kiesty was too unwell to continue so we returned to Krems and put her on a train to Vienna.
Gill and I cycled an easy 50 miles to Vienna, but for the blistering heat, along the Danube. We stopped for our first swim in the river at one point to help us cool down. On the opposite bank of the tributary we were swimming in there was a group of elderly nudist bathers. Im quite pleased that my eyesight isnt what it was. Vienna looks majestic but we havent got the time or the energy to take it in.
Later in the evening the still air started to blow up into a storm. Waiters were chasing napkins that blew off the table tops as the first streaks of lightening started to flash across the sky. Across the courtyard from our hostel we could hear a beautifully played violin. I thought it might be a mysterious Hungarian folk tune until I realised it was Paul McCartneys Yesterday.
We are all looking forward to a cooler night, especially Kirsty who is struggling to control her temperature.
Barry
ps sorry cant find the apostrophe on this keyboard
This morning we set off with Kirsty on the back of the tandem and Gill on Kirstys Moulton . However, after 7 miles, Kiesty was too unwell to continue so we returned to Krems and put her on a train to Vienna.
Gill and I cycled an easy 50 miles to Vienna, but for the blistering heat, along the Danube. We stopped for our first swim in the river at one point to help us cool down. On the opposite bank of the tributary we were swimming in there was a group of elderly nudist bathers. Im quite pleased that my eyesight isnt what it was. Vienna looks majestic but we havent got the time or the energy to take it in.
Later in the evening the still air started to blow up into a storm. Waiters were chasing napkins that blew off the table tops as the first streaks of lightening started to flash across the sky. Across the courtyard from our hostel we could hear a beautifully played violin. I thought it might be a mysterious Hungarian folk tune until I realised it was Paul McCartneys Yesterday.
We are all looking forward to a cooler night, especially Kirsty who is struggling to control her temperature.
Barry
ps sorry cant find the apostrophe on this keyboard
Sunday, 2 August 2009
Day 15, Saturday Linzt to Krems an der Donau, 102 miles
After two easier days and having Sean on board, we are all staring to feel that this is actually a holiday! We were in a fab hotel last night where we could get really sorted and so started today feeling really fresh and up for it.
We made haste down the Danube cycle path and had cycled 40 miles before 11s. After latte and cake, scrummy choc and nut cake, we did another 25 miles before lunch. Were back into our old routine of having a long lunch because it is so hot and it feels like such a treat. We started the final stage thinking that we only had 25 miles, in reality it was 35. Im ashamed to say that neither the stunning countryside, fruit ladened trees and vineyards, or architecture, fairy tale castles and medieval buildings, could take our minds off this extra 10 miles.
Thanks for all your comments, they are really encouraging and its always good to hear from home.
Gill
We made haste down the Danube cycle path and had cycled 40 miles before 11s. After latte and cake, scrummy choc and nut cake, we did another 25 miles before lunch. Were back into our old routine of having a long lunch because it is so hot and it feels like such a treat. We started the final stage thinking that we only had 25 miles, in reality it was 35. Im ashamed to say that neither the stunning countryside, fruit ladened trees and vineyards, or architecture, fairy tale castles and medieval buildings, could take our minds off this extra 10 miles.
Thanks for all your comments, they are really encouraging and its always good to hear from home.
Gill
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