Friday 31 July 2009

Day 13 Straubing to Passau, 60 miles

Sean here again, back on the bike as it is my last day with the family. I've actually had a bit of an adventure hitch-hiking along their route but I guess all thats for another blog. This morning we breakfasted with some sort of German scout group who were staying at our hostel, then hopped straight onto the bikes. Our first task was to find a bike shop and get Kirsty's saddle to stay in one place. At this small shop in Straubing's old centre I just about understood what the man was saying, a true Bayerner his accent was the German equivalent of Rab C. Nesbitt with no teeth and a bellyful of Tenants Super. Still he sorted it out ok and off we went.



I find that cycling, like all sports really, depends mainly on how you feel on any given day. If you feel settled and comfortable, and if conditions go your way, it actually becomes quite easy, no matter how far you have to go. The longest distance I've ever done was a bit like this but today was the perfect example. From the start we sped away from Straubing, with its cobbled streets and Eastern looking towers, a new architectural signpost towards Turkey, and raced away through the countryside. I felt invincible on the bike, once we had secured the saddle at the right height. Our average speed for the first few hours was around 16mph, not bad with a heavy load. After a pleasant stop in Degendorf, where I again encountered a strange country dialect, we were off again through glorious landscapes. A mountainous countryside always looks impressive from a bike, but it looks even better when you avoid all the mountains.

On the last stretch to Passau we switched onto the cycle path, which we'd basically avoided. Most of the last 25km or so passed by level with the Danube; the various fishermen, waterskiers and general ambience more then compensating for the slower, gritty tracks. As with cycling alongside mountains, we appreciated the rivers majesty more as we rode closer to its banks. When we crossed to join the main road to Passau an anonymous brass band suddenly piped up from somewhere in an old nineteenth century factory building, or maybe a boat below. Either way it was a fitting fanfare to a great day which, sadly, is my last on this tour. Our hostel in Passau was a lovely old flat run by a friendly Hungarian lady and filled with her kittens and antique furniture.

As I finish writing this my parents and big sis are on their way through Austria, another day, another country, whilst I spend the morning in this small Prague-esque town (which also shares similarities with Gloucester according to Mum and Dad). From the banks of the river overlooking the pastel colours, church-dominated square and rolling hills I wish Mum, Dad and Kirst all the best for the rest of their big adventure. I'm proud that they have come so far and miss them already, I'm even somewhat jealous that the rest of those miles and all those small experiences will slowly unfold infront of them. Mach's Gut and Viel Spaß!

Sean

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